Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Halloween

It was awesome.
I didn't have enough candy by a mile. We had to turn off the lights before 7pm. People are still ringing the bell. I bought three large bags! Next year I will get much much more. Cecilia explained to us that because we have the guard our neighborhood is considered safe (good to know) so kids from all over come here to trick or treat. She could have said something yesterday when she was with me as I clearly did not buy enough candy, but that's not what a maid does. So.

Ellie loved giving out the candy. Jack not so much. He was not a fan of other kids taking what he saw as his goods. There was a lot of crying. But El stood at our gate looking up and down the street shouting to any kid she saw. Come get candy!! Costume or not. The ones in costumes got custom greetings, "ooh a scary vampire! A pirate - aaarrrrggg" She rules.

Jase got home early and we hit the 'hood. At first Ellie didn't want to leave her post giving away candy, but then she remembered her own loot. Pickings were slim but they're little so that's fine.

We met two American families that live on our street! Both with kids older than ours but one answered the door with wine glass in hand (hooray!) and one with a 15 year old daughter who loves to babysit. Aw yeah.

Enough talk - picture time.
This is Cecilia!  Helping Ellie put the candy to give out into one of Jack's toy buckets.  Much better idea than our one pot to cook with.  Good call Ceci.

Bringing candy to the trick or treaters

Excellent old school costumes
Ellie waved "thank you" to everyone who visited
"Here you go scary scarecrow"
Good costumes, plastic bags?
Trick or treat!  Jack, please don't break that.
Nerds!
Ellie loves it.  Jack, not so much.
Our hood
Super Dad!

The Incredibles

On Saturday we visited the market at Coyoacan. Very cool Colonial part of town. Read about it!

In the main market, among the fried crickets and cow tongues, we stumbled on a stall that had Ellie's 2012 Halloween costume request: "The red Mr. Incredible" ("Not the blue one from the beginning of the movie, mommy.") She literally whispered under her breath "Oh. My. Goodness." as she tried it on. It's awesome, homemade, and they had one for Jack too. Don't tell her, but she's actually wearing the Violet Incredible costume. It fits better.

The kids have been wearing their costumes all day. Ok, every day since Saturday.  Cecilia had to wash them at nap time.

Can't wait for tonight!! What is trick or treat going to be like here? Will we actually meet some of our neighbors? Did I buy too much/too little candy? Will Cecilia pass it out? What will she put the candy in - our one pot?

Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Halloween in Monte Parnaso!

This letter was delivered to the house today. Have I mentioned I no longer answer the phone or the doorbell? It's pretty awesome.  Gracias Cecilia.
According to google this letter basically says our little gated street is having trick or treat! I was really wondering.
Kids have costumes (check) and we went to buy candy to give out today (check) after I translated the note.
Steinbergs are ready! Bring it Mexico City.

Correos de Mexico

Walked to the post office.
"Necesita estampilla"
Seven pesos fifty
The smallest bill I have is a $100 peso note.
No cambio.
$100 pesos is approximately $7.45 US. It's not like I was even asking them to break a twenty. Sigh.
So we walk to 7-11, the kids get lollipops, I get change.
Back to post office.
Letter mailed.
Win!

Monday, October 22, 2012

This week's challenge: paperwork

Lots of paperwork to deal with this week.  Paperwork and no printer.  Oh yeah, and I still don't speak the language.  Gotta work on that..

I have to mail some docs to the US for my job
I have to mail some docs locally in Mexico to open an account where we can transfer money back to the US

Jason is in Columbia this week so I can't just bug him to do this all from his office.

Do they sell envelopes at the post office here?

I found somewhere called "Office Digital" in Polanco.  Hope it is what I think it is.

Stay tuned!!

Monday, October 15, 2012

Challenges

This week poses some real challenges.

I've had a few wins (I can call a taxi!  I can buy groceries!) and more than a few loses but it's Monday morning and I'm feeling brave.  I can do this.  Here is what absolutely needs to be done:

1) Pay the phone bill.  It's muy importante.  Phone bill = internet bill.  I cannot lose the Internet.  But here is the challenge:  we don't have an actual bill.  Cecilia told Jason that the phone company called us (Mexico) and wants to be paid.  Ok, no problemo.  But when I tried to pay online, they need a code from the bill.  Argh.  There is a TelMex office down the street where I can pay at a station, but again, I need a bill.  So I need to get brave and go talk to someone.   Google translate says:  Necesito una factura de telĆ©fono

We'll see how that goes.

2) I need to get money to the US.  Jason has been paid in pesos since June but we have been accruing debt in dollars.  Despite my absolute best intentions (I'm actually good at this kind of thing), linking bank accounts is impossible.  Getting dollars to Mexico is easy.  The reverse is not.  After multiple trips to our bank, we finally got the correct form to wire money and I spent an afternoon translating and filling it out.  Jason took it to the bank the next day and was told we can only send US$1000 per week, maximum $4000 per month.  That is not going to help.  Seems there is a wee problem with drug dealers trying to launder money through the US.  I must figure out a different solution.

3) I need to find Ellie a school.  Right now she is reciting, line for line, Despicable Me.  Watching movies is how I get time to do anything at all, and I didn't bring many DVDs with us.  My bad.   We were pretty much outright rejected by the Montessori down the street (which I thought was a shoo in as their website says "admission year round!")  They never answered their phone and when I showed up unannounced they very politely let me in, but then said they are full.  Eton is even closer and they were super nice.  Jack is in for next school year (he had to be 1 year 8 months as of August 1 to start this year, he was 1 year 6 month... sigh) so he will be an Eton boy (he could be King of England!) in August of 2013.  Ellie is more complicated.  There is no spot for her now, and she may be able to take a child's spot in February when another expat is moving back home.  Then we have to cross our fingers there is another spot for her when the school year starts again in August 2013.  It's all a maybe and even the maybe isn't until February.  I have to get her into something organized before then.  Gymboree?  Anything.  I saw another Montessori down another street and will try to be brave enough to call them and hope someone speaks English.

I will post pictures of my progress.  Wish me luck!

Awesome Update
Crazy success! What a day!
Got up the nerve (and wrote down "I need to pay a phone bill" on a piece of paper) and walked with Ellie to TelMex.
Of course I wrote the number down incorrectly the first time.




















In front of our house

Ave de Los Alpes


Headed to TelMex


Paper worked like a charm and a woman politely directed me to a machine where she did all the work and I just fed in cash. Done!


TelMex

El and I celebrate with an ice cream and a pedicure respectively. If I can pay the phone bill I can walk into a nail shop. It's a universal language.  Pick your color...

Ice Cream!




I also got TWO responses in one day (only took two weeks of nagging) from "businesses" (?) that say they can transfer money for me. It all seems extra sketchy to me that I can't make these transfers from my own bank but, When In Mexico.

And I found a Gymboree! Emailed them but of course haven't yet heard back. Trying to learn patience.

But check check check *plus* pedicure.


I needed that

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Maid Fail

The maid is an interesting thing, right?

It is awesome.  But it does take some getting used to.  We are also making some fantastic cultural mistakes, and have dubbed them "maid fails."  It is important to note that these fails are completely our own.  Cecilia is just doing her job with crazy American employers.

A sample:

When Cecilia first arrived, I nervously and manically took her through the house, ending up in her room.  She speaks no English, me no Spanish.  But she said something something "cambio" and I swear, I remembered that word meant "dresser!"  When the rental furniture people were here I had to sign all these docs listing what we got and I really thought I remembered "cambio" being one of them.  She had a backpack full of her things and no where to put them.  (The door to her room is too small...) So I desperately try to tell her we will get her one, one is coming, if she needs one we will go this weekend, on and on; all to blank stares.  I finally give up and just leave.  Back in the living room I google translate "cambio" myself:  change.  She wanted to change her clothes.  That's all.  Maid fail.  On the plus side, I learned a new word I will never forget.  Just today we were at the zoo, bought tickets to an exhibit (on butterflies!  It was cool.  Jack squashed many.  More on that...) and after Jason paid and walked away they shouted "cambio!" My ears perked right up.  Your change!!  I understand!!

Cecilia and I went to the grocery store yesterday.  Since she will cook for us when our pots and pans arrive (she made the most amazing eggs the other day - don't know how because we only have one pot to boil water) I always tell her to buy whatever she needs.  At first she refused to buy food for herself saying she would eat what we eat, then she saw what we eat.... So this time I remember olive oil.  We have pasta and that pot, and I like my pasta with olive oil and parmesean.  Yum.  So I buy a small olive oil, she gives me a cockeyed look and says "si? si? mas rico?" like I've chosen the wrong thing.  But no! I like olive oil!  I'm sure of it.  So off we go.  We hit the aisle with regular vegetable oil and I point to her and try to say "would you like this?" and she said, "no, no, no" and picked up my bottle of olive oil.  When I told Jason that story he said "you should have grabbed the vegetable oil anyway."  He's right.  Maid fail.

I did have a Maid Win too.  At the grocery store we passed the magazines, and we Steinbergs love a good magazine.  I saw Jason's favorite, The Economist, and decide to grab it.  I tell Cecilia she can get a magazine too, but saw in her face she was unsure.  So I grabbed a People (with Jennie Garth on the cover!  I was her for Halloween once...) and said "si, si - por you" (I know, mi Espanol es muy malo) and put then in the cart.  So she did get herself a magazine.  Maid win!  Funny enough, after the groceries were unpacked and Jason and I were enjoying our new reading material she came into the family room and offered us her magazine first.  Sweet, but I still don't speak Spanish.  I hope she got one she actually likes...

Saturday, October 13, 2012

Moving abroad? Here's how you can watch TV

I read in the WSJ today that fall TV viewership is down significantly. I would like to take partial credit for that decline.

I unabashedly love TV. I used to make TV tapes for my boyfriend like others made mix tapes. Good old days of VCR.

So what's a girl to do when she moves to a foreign country?

SlingBox. It's a device that is hooked up to a TV (preferably in your home town) and whatever is on that TV can be broadcast to your computer. I use this mainly for college football so ours is connected to my dads TV. Works pretty well... But you watch whatever is on the tv its hooked up to. Yes, you can change the channel but rude! It's not your TV. You are then also at the mercy of the cable package of the TV it's hooked to. This is probably the better solution for someone who is maintaining two homes.

Next - the Internets. You should check them out. My favorite new site is USTVnow.com. Created for military (genius!) it streams some local central Illinois TV station. You get the basic channels free (abc, NBC, CBS, fox) and if you're willing to pay (I am) you can get more. Still haven't convinced Jason I need the 200 channel + dvr package (primarily because you have to buy your monthly access up front - so if you want a year it's like $1500) but I may override him when True Blood (better yet - Game of Thrones) comes back on.

Next breakthrough is the Xbox. Jase wisely brought that down with him on his last business trip. We have no games. It is our DVD player and has Netflix and Hulu plus. Hello entertained kids.

And in the worst case scenario there is always iTunes. I am covered. So as long as our Internet doesn't go down (knock on wood with me please) I watch Survivor live Wednesday nights.

It's fun catching up on shows we've missed. Jason is currently watching some old-west show (Hell on Wheels?) that I just can't get into but when it's done he owes me Downtown Abbey.

Who knows maybe, just maybe we'll give The Wire one more chance (I know, I know, "its the best show ever" but ugh that first episode was So Boring).

The maid inicio!

I think that means start. Something like "inicio" is on the drier and coffee maker (but interestingly not the dishwasher.)

Having a maid is everything and more.

Everything: coming home from your morning excursion to scrubbed bathrooms and laundry washed, dried, folded *and* put away.  Heaven.

More: not really being able to communicate and dashing out of the house with the kids when you think you accidentally asked her to come with, and don't really want to also entertain the maid at the Children's Museum.

Everything: someone washing your dinner dishes while you watch TV in the other room!

More: running out of wine in the other room and feeling so much white man guilt about walking past her in said kitchen, doing *your* dishes to get more...

Cultural side note: Papalote Museo de NiƱos is awesome.

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

Day 3: Where I go to Walmart and Get Hot Water

Emboldened by my successes yesterday (both kids alive! house standing!) I hire a car from the hotel by myself to take me and the kids to that bastion of commerce around the world, Walmart.  Es muy bueno.  I need things.  Specifically:
Pillows (4)
A mop, preferably Swiffer. [please see filthy house, no maid]
Milk
Yogurt
General things to make the family feel at home

The car from the hotel (again, no seat belts!  kids just sit, or not, wherever you plant them. YIKES) was great, English speaking driver (bonus!), and what I would call a town car.  We arrived at Walmart.  It was comforting to know I could find everything I needed there, and I did.  But I would like to note, refrigeration means nothing.  I opened the cases for milk, butter, yogurt - everything was luke warm, at best.  Why even bother with the refrigerated cases?  I carry on... Wine!! I find WINE!! Don't care much that it's 9am on a Thursday, I'm in the market.  My one and only requirement: screw tops.  Done. White and Red.  Momma is happy.

Shopping: success.  Back to the house. This excursion (hotel, Walmart, wait, house) cost US $50.  Don't know if that is a rip off or a bargain.  But I do know in the US if you hired a taxi for at least 3 hours it would certainly be more.  Suburbs to O'hare is at least $70 in a town car...

Get to the (filthy) house, and just knowing that I have the power to clean it makes me feel better.  I still don't really clean (I am getting a maid afterall) must focus on the real need at hand:  hot water.  Homeowner calls me again from the Netherlands and again sends over the maid of a friend who lives nearby.  We *again* (see the trend?) don't communicate and she tries to light the pilot.  At least this time I remembered to buy a lighter!  Hooray Walmart!  Of course the pilot does not light.

Once the friend's maid confirms the pilot (again!) won't light, homeowner calls me back and things start to get Mexican.  She thinks we need gas.  Gas for the house.  She has me walk our home phone to the guard outside, whom she instructs to "flag down the next gas truck that drives by."  You read that right.  What the what?  She then asks me how much money I have on me.  Well lady, I just went to Walmart and paid a private driver $50.  Answer: not much.  So I'm told when/if a gas company shows up I am to pay them whatever I have in my wallet (~US$ 60) and they will give me as much gas as that will buy.  Is that a lot?  Is that nothing?  No clue. There was also some talk of tipping but sorry, no comprende.  To make matters worse, she calls me back about 20 minutes later and says she called her "regular" gas truck and if/when they show up I should give them half of the cash I have and save the other half for the gas company the guard may flag down.  My head is spinning.

Ding dong!  Someone at the gate.  It's a gas company!  Lucky my home is empty of valuables because I am just letting anyone in who rings the gate.  In march two guys in jumpsuits who ask (I think) where the water heaters are.  I show them.  Oh, kids crying btw.  Strange people, strange house, strange language, no naps.  Hooray.  Spanish Spanish Spanish.  Someone is on the roof of my house.  Someone else in in the front yard tossing up a large hose which I can only assume will put natural gas into our water heaters.  Ok...

Now the plumbers arrive.  Great.  Come on in.  I think you're the plumbers.  But really, what do I know.  They start to run the faucets.  Shocker:  once the men in jumpsuits leave and I guess we now have gas (I emptied my wallet) the hot water is working.  Success.  Success?  I get a lecture from the older man plumber to run all the faucets for "tres minutes."  I get that much.  Ok.  I will run them.  Tres minutes.  Each faucet. Si si.  But I physically feel hot water from our showers and upstairs bathrooms.  Hooray for me!!

Ding dong! Oops, this is the gas company I should have used.  Guess the other was just random.  Both have given me cards and I cannot tell them apart.  When the water runs cold again I will call one.  Or both.  Is this really how it works here?  I have to send these people away, but they make sure to tell me they know the house and where the gas line is so I should definitely use them next time.  At least that's what I get from the pantomime   Ok, whatever.  I still have no more money so, sorry.  Adios!

Time for the screw top wine from Walmart and a plastic glass.  Oh yeah.  I can handle Mexico.  Today....

Day 2: Rented Furniture, Insane Children

Wednesday I brave the trip to our empty rented house with the kids.  Jason hires us a cab from the hotel and drops us off there first, then goes on his way.

The house doesn't have anything.  It is filthy. FILTHY.  It's nice and large and has marble floors but has been empty for about a year save for the workers who came to update the kitchen and bathrooms (on the demand of my husband, bless.)  So so so dirty.   So dirty.  Did I mention dirty?  Dirty.

We are getting a maid (!!) but she doesn't start until next week.  So I carry on.

Primary order of the day:  await the rental furniture.  It's kind of killing me that I can't clean where the furniture will go, but I cannot.  Do not have supplies and who knows what the kids are up to when I turn my back.  There is a fountain - more on that later.  Surprisingly, the delivery shows up basically on time and we get what we need.  All but the dresser for the maid.  The door to the "servicio" (maid's room) is so small it does not fit.  Um, guess I'll figure out what to do about that later.

We now have:
3 twin beds (one for each kid, one for the maid) Note: the kids have headboards, the maid does not.
1 queen bed
2 dressers
2 mirrors
2 table lamps
1 small dining table with 4 chairs (white?!?! fucking WHITE fabric chairs.  This must be some sort of Mexican scam.  Who rents *white* furniture?  My kids have already destroyed them.  I think it's a microfiber and I've been able to brush off a lot of dirt but still.  One month minimum of white dining chairs?  I see a purchase in my future)
1 TV and stand (no cable though)
1 oversized chair
1 loveseat

This will be my furniture for at least 4 weeks.  Here we go.

So the hot water isn't working.  This is a problem.  We can't really check out of the hotel until we have hot water so Agenda Item #2 is hot water.

The owner of the house actually calls me.  She had to do it twice because the first time I didn't realize what the phone ring was.  Some little melody just started out of nowhere while I was trying to put the kids down for a nap on the new beds (didn't work btw, no nap Joes).  I don't know - the melody could be coming from the street.  I do live in Mexico now... So it took a while to realize it was the phone.  Eventually I pick up, she speaks broken English (she lives in the Netherlands and coincidentally, I'm Dutch!  Sure that will come in handy some day) and tells me she is sending over her friend's maid who knows the house and will light the pilot on the water heaters.

The maid shows up, but we don't have fire.  No matches, no lighter.  Of course not - we were just on an airplane.  Eventually she asks the guard who finds matches.  It won't light.  Lots of Spanish.  No comprende.  No hot water.  She leaves.

Ok, lunch.  Must feed children.  Around 2pm (no naps!) we leave for a walk.  Google maps tells me there is a "Sanborns" not too far, so Jack goes into the backpack and off we go.  I must be the only white woman to cart a child on her back ever in this country because the stares I get are remarkable.  But we get there and while there aren't any cleaning supplies there is a restaurant and I can decode the menu enough to order kids meals.  Chicken nuggets.  French fries.  Milk is 5 pesos extra.  I understand!  Si, leche.  Kids are happy?

We haul it back to the house, I feel very accomplished, and the rest of the afternoon is spent with the kids running around like maniacs.  Oh, the fountain.  Our garden has a fountain.  It is lovely - but gross.  Hasn't been turned on in months (years?).  Jack has already jumped in.  New game!  Throw rocks in the fountain.  My new neighbors now all know there is an angry American woman who lives in the area who screams at disobedient children.  Excellent first impression.

Finally, Jason is done with work, meets us at the house, and back to the hotel we go. Taxi ride with no car seats?  You betcha.  Free drinks at the hotel and put a fork in me.  I'm done.

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Day 1: Nous sommes arrive (crap, French again)

We arrived in Mexico City on Tuesday afternoon.  The flight was fantastically unremarkable.  Despite flying up front, we had a fee for excess luggage.  It was to be expected - however I will in the future remember to disburse the weight more evenly.  It was only *my* luggage that was over the limit (of 70 pounds!) and cost us.  In my defense "mom's" suitcase caught every. last. thing. that was left around the house before we left.  Pajamas we slept in that night.  All this shit from the bathroom.  Those shoes I forgot were in that closet.  Those dress shirts I forgot about too.  Oh, hey, that drycleaning we picked up yesterday.  My new favorite truck. What about those sweatshirts we got because when the movers came it was 90 and when we finally left it was 50.  And on.  And on.

Security at O'Hare was also annoying, but we made it through.  Ellie cried hysterically when Girl had to go through the machine.  But overall the (product placement!) Go Go Kidz Travelmate was the game changer. Travelling with toddlers? Get it.

In Mexico customs we hit another snag: the button.  No es bueno.  When you go through customs here you put your luggage through a final xray and then push a button.  It's very early Steven King:  if the light turns green, hooray! You win free passage to Mexico.  If it turns red, trouble.  You must then go to a table 5 feet to the right and open ALL your belongings, most of which will probably be confiscated (or worse?).  For us that meant 5 giant checked suitcases (including one of mainly toys) and 3 carry ons.  Luckily, Jason was so visibly angry that he completely intimidated the woman who was "checking" us and she gave us a really easy pass.  I have read stories about people having all their possessions confiscated, and even as it was happening to us an older couple walked past and commented "we got the red button once when traveling with our dogs; they took Everything."  In my push to be over prepared I had about 40 of those food pouches my kids call applesauce and 4 opened boxes of random granola bars (because when will I figure out how/where to buy them food?  Damn kids are hungry every day).  Thank you visibly annoyed husband.  Food for the children was saved.

We go directly to our rented house to drop off our obnoxious amount of luggage.  It's nice!  I'd never seen it before and am happy.  Much more on that later.  From there: hotel, walk around, visit a park, eat in a restaurant, try to get kids to sleep in a rollaway bed together.  Jack eventually sleeps horizontally between me and Jason in the king.

Quick product placement here:  I love me a Hyatt.  Whenever we can we stay at Hyatt and the Regency Club Floors are worth it.  Free booze.  Free snacks.  Free breakfast.  Listed by priority.

So much more.  Must sleep. Promise pictures.  All that.